New Charger

[Nehalennia]

I have mentioned that the Charger on the boat we just bought had a Charger that was DOA.
It's Professional Mariner unit that is older and now discontinued.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o99/ToddOlason/Re-launch1-02-089.jpg

For giggles I call Pro Mariner and asked the Tech 'Bob' (Nice guy), if there was any reason to send it in and repair it. He said no, there are much better chargers they offer and said once I know my house battery configuration give him a call back and they'd sell us one at 50% off.

Well I wasn't expecting that, so I have solved my dilema of whether to buy and inverter/charger v separate inverter and charger. I think I'll get that charger and now Call Xantrex and see if that Xantrex inverter Doug "GoAweighTo" found at Costco for $89.00 is the way to go vs. the Xantrex Prosine 1800 which is close to $1000.00

I just called Pro Mariner and Ordered the 1240i Plus Charger.
They needed my serial Number on my old one and are sending it UPS ground for $250.00.
ProMariner 1240i plus (http://www.promariner.com/productFeature.php?ProductNum=63341)

[Go Aweigh2452]

Good deal. I have the 15/3. Does the new one come with a read out guage somewhere? It was interesting reading about manually selecting the conditioning 1 to 4 but how would you know which one for which battery without a readout someplace?

[Nehalennia]

Good deal. I have the 15/3. Does the new one come with a read out guage somewhere? It was interesting reading about manually selecting the conditioning 1 to 4 but how would you know which one for which battery without a readout someplace?

No I asked about that and he said no, he Said others do that:confused:
I know Xantrex does, and I'm leaning that way with not only the inverter but the monitor

[sunnydude2]

Could you have chosen one of the ProNautic chargers that has the optional helm remote?

[Nehalennia]

I wonder why they didn't suggest that?
Well the inverter I want from Xantrex either has one or I can add a monitor from them.

[Nehalennia]

Update:
I spoke to Pro Mariner.
They were to ship the ProTech 1240i Unit today, but they offered to not send that one and send the ProNautic with a monitor for another $185. I'm going to do that because to me the monitor is a great tool.

[sunnydude2]

Nice. I will be ordering mine very shortly.

[Nehalennia]

Nice. I will be ordering mine very shortly.

The more I read about this charger the more I like my decision.



ProMariner's Website (http://www.promariner.com/productFeature.php?ProductNum=63540)

ProNautic employs ProMariner?s progressive C3 all digital technology, bolstering intuitive software-based multi-stage charging, communication and control. C3 yields precision charging performance, programmable charge profiles and real time status. Optional helm remote available.

Intelligent C3 Software Controlled Multi Stage Charging
Optimal fast charge, conditioning, maintenance & dockside power supply mode
Active Battery Balance Control (BBC)
C3 Software actively monitors the condition of each battery or bank while charging, to ensure no battery is ever overcharged
C3 Intelligent Self Calculating Absorption / Conditioning Mode
ProNautic automatically programs charge/conditioning time based on discharge state of batteries, resulting in a 100% charge while desulfating batteries and extending battery life
C3 Automatic 10 Day Re-Condition Mode
Added conditioning to maximize battery life
Fully Automatic Wide Range Global AC Input
95VAC to 250VAC 50/60hz
True Temperature Compensation with Remote Probe

Interactive Remote Port for Optional Helm Control & Display

User Programmable Charge Profiles for up to 7 Battery Types

Built In Safety
Ignition protection, over temperature, over voltage and polarity protection

[sunnydude2]

My blowboating friend was searching for a new charger. He mentioned his was a ProMariner so told him about this. They recommended the same one you are getting and it was the best deal around. Not sure if he has ordered his yet or not. I am waiting for my father-in-law to order mine as a 'new boat gift' as he missed out on the batteries.

Looking forward to seeing how you configure your batteries. On our 28' that originally came with two 27's (or 24's), one was #1 and the other #2 on the switch. I added 4 6v's as the #2 house bank and combined the two existing batteries to #1 for starting. We then had a bank of batteries for the house of 470AH and a more than sufficient starting bank for a single 5.7.

[Nehalennia]

My blowboating friend was searching for a new charger. He mentioned his was a ProMariner so told him about this. They recommended the same one you are getting and it was the best deal around. Not sure if he has ordered his yet or not. I am waiting for my father-in-law to order mine as a 'new boat gift' as he missed out on the batteries.

Looking forward to seeing how you configure your batteries. On our 28' that originally came with two 27's (or 24's), one was #1 and the other #2 on the switch. I added 4 6v's as the #2 house bank and combined the two existing batteries to #1 for starting. We then had a bank of batteries for the house of 470AH and a more than sufficient starting bank for a single 5.7.

I'm thinking along those lines but want to map it out well.

[Ssounder]

Looking forward to seeing how you configure your batteries. On our 28' that originally came with two 27's (or 24's), one was #1 and the other #2 on the switch. I added 4 6v's as the #2 house bank and combined the two existing batteries to #1 for starting. We then had a bank of batteries for the house of 470AH and a more than sufficient starting bank for a single 5.7.

So what position is your switch in when charging w/alternator? I have the standard A/B/Both. I want to upgrade to separate starting/house batteries but don't want to overload my alternator after a long weekend without A/C. I've read that too much load can cause alternator to heat up and fail. -Not good.

[sunnydude2]

We usually started on #1 and then switched over to #2 and left it there while running. Never had a problem with our alternator. Might look at one of the Auto charging relays for the alternator?

[Nehalennia]

We usually started on #1 and then switched over to #2 and left it there while running. Never had a problem with our alternator. Might look at one of the Auto charging relays for the alternator?

I have heard that switching the battery switch while running can clip the diodes in your alternator.
If you know you will be running awhile so that you know you have some time to charge everything, why not just start on "both"?

[sunnydude2]

The new switches are "make then break" to prevent that.

[Ssounder]

My understanding is that if one bank is low and you combine them (switch on "Both") it will pull the other bank down until they equalize. Usually not an issue, but could suck some power from your starter battery. Also, it defeats the benefit of having a starter bank in the first place.

[Sundancer]

We always start with one battery and after a while switch to the other battery WHILE it's running. If you run one battery down and it won't start the engine and can't switch it while running you won't be able to charge it until you get it back on shore power? The one thing I've never done is to put it in the both position for charging. That slows the charging of either battery and you want to keep one in good shape. The other reason, as noted above is that the two batteries will equalize dumping power from the fully charged to the lesser charged and that defeats the purpose as well. The ONLY time we use the "both" position is when both batteries are dead and we need power from both batteries to get the motor started. It's worked for us on the 250 DA for the last 8 years and we've switched from "1" to "2" approximately one or more times per day.

[Nehalennia]

From Perko's website (http://gator49.hostgator.com/~zeromyst/catalog/images/Fig.%208603%20Inst.pdf)


CAUTION:
(1) Make sure connections at terminals No.1 and No. 2 are of the same polarity. Always STOP engines before
switching to “OFF” position.
(2) Make-Before-Break feature allows switching between 1-all-2 positions with engine running


It's the switching to "OFF" I heard. The reason is the motor's pulling a draw directly from the alternator with no battery I assume

[Ssounder]

Thanks you guys. That clears it up for me. (Hope I didn't highjack your thread Todd). I've been waiting for a good discussion about batteries because I'm replacing mine this year and and considering my options. I like the idea of the Auto Charging Relay (Thanks Sean). I think I'll add that along with the new batteries (2 house, 1 starter) this year. Still need a good onboard charger but will have to wait until some of my higher priority projects are done.

[SomeSailor]

Charging relays aren't peaches and cream either... they rely on electrical power to switch. If you've got a backup because you assume electrical stuff will fail... you need to assume that relay and it's wiring are under the same rules.

A switch is the surest way to guarantee you can get home.

[tolly28]

I'm a big fan of having a house bank isolated from starting bank. No switches to mess with unless there's a problem. I have a house bank of 4 golf cart batteries and a starting bank of one group 27. I can parallel the banks by switch if needed, but most of the time I simply turn on the batteries and go.

If space is available, I'd go with a seperate house bank and an ACR, combiner, isolator, or whatever you wish to charge it...

[Ssounder]

Looks like I need to do some more homework before I decide on the final plan. I don't want to wait too long though. I want to complete preparation this weekend so I can go out next Friday. I still have Batteries, Impeller and final detail work. -I'm itching to get out...

[Nehalennia]

Yeah, I need to lay out my engine bay and, I know I have space but once I get the charger I only want to do this once.

I see several feet of wire, connectors, isolators......and more "SeaRay Yoga" in my future.

At least the bilge is clean..............

[Ssounder]

You had to mention the bilge, didn't you.

[Nehalennia]

You had to mention the bilge, didn't you.

Uh oh. Did I just add something to your list.

Meet my little friend.
http://simplegreen.com/images/prod_all_purpose_lg.jpg

Spray this in there, leave it for 20 minutes, then get in there with a hand brush and a smile on your face :mrgreen:

[Go Aweigh2452]

Uh oh. Did I just add something to your list.

Meet my little friend.
http://simplegreen.com/images/prod_all_purpose_lg.jpg

Spray this in there, leave it for 20 minutes, then get in there with a hand brush and a smile on your face :mrgreen:

Yep, that is what I use in my nice a clean bilge... But I use a boat brush so I don't have to climb in there... guess some SR owners haven't gotten to that point yet... :argh2

[Nehalennia]

Yep, that is what I use in my nice a clean bilge... But I use a boat brush so I don't have to climb in there... guess some SR owners haven't gotten to that point yet... :argh2

Well there smarty pants. I like to reach under the engine and scrub too and make sure there's nothing down there to clog the transom drain or in the bilge.

[Go Aweigh2452]

Well there smarty pants. I like to reach under the engine and scrub too and make sure there's nothing down there to clog the transom drain or in the bilge.<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

Ahh, I partially fill the bilge from the garboard hole with fresh water after simple greening the bilge and as soon as the aft bilge pump activates/runs for a few seconds, I pull the hose out of the plug hole and let it drain... nothing to scrub under my engine! Then I vacuum the remaining water up with my shop vac... 8)

[Nehalennia]

Ahh, I partially fill the bilge from the garboard hole with fresh water after simple greening the bilge and as soon as the aft bilge pump activates/runs for a few seconds, I pull the hose out of the plug hole and let it drain... nothing to scrub under my engine! Then I vacuum the remaining water up with my shop vac... 8)
....from the overheating issue I had some coolant on the floor of the bilge.
Hopefully it can stay clean now

[Go Aweigh2452]

Hopefully it can stay clean now
well, when I get a chance, I'm going to look and inspect and grade you... LOL

[Nehalennia]

well, when I get a chance, I'm going to look and inspect and grade you... LOL

I can't wait .....maybe Sunday at Blake

[tolly28]

Here's a great solution for a battery switch for running house and starting circuits. Add an ACR and you're set! http://bluesea.com/category/1/productdocs/6011.

It's even available in a "kit". http://www.fisheriessupply.com/online/ln_menu/product.asp/mode/1/product_id/257878/No/20/N/11475+4294965606/Ne/8000/catalog_name/FISCO/R/7691/act/A01/Ntx/mode+matchpartial+rel+Inactive/Shopby/Shop+By+Department/Ns/P_Sort

[Nehalennia]

Here's a great solution for a battery switch for running house and starting circuits. Add an ACR and you're set! http://bluesea.com/category/1/productdocs/6011.

It's even available in a "kit". http://www.fisheriessupply.com/online/ln_menu/product.asp/mode/1/product_id/257878/No/20/N/11475+4294965606/Ne/8000/catalog_name/FISCO/R/7691/act/A01/Ntx/mode+matchpartial+rel+Inactive/Shopby/Shop+By+Department/Ns/P_Sort
Yeah, I wonder if I can do it all with the BlueSea SI "Automatic Charging relay" and omit the switch? (http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/387)

I've seen that one before and if I add a bank I may be able to separate the two with this?
I haven't read up on it all completely but, I'll check out the diagrams.

[tolly28]

Yes, this switch would allow you to diconnect both circuits using one switch. Switch it to "On" and both circuits are turned on. If, for some reason you need to, you turn it to "Combine" and the banks are paralelled. http://bluesea.com/viewresource/69

[SomeSailor]

Switches are the best way to go. I've been in electronics my whole life and can tell ya they'll never let you down until you need them the most. 1-2-BOTH-OFF switches are a piece of cake, and let you stay in control.

[Nehalennia]

I have a Guest 1-2-Both-OFF switch now if I wasn't clear before.

[tolly28]

I guess I don't see why you would really need the control... An ACR and a switch (or switches) that allow you to combine banks as needed is pretty simple.

[Nehalennia]

well my goal was to separate the starting and house bank and install an inverter for the house side. Obviously, while at the dock on shore power or running it would be nice to charge the banks. When running I want to make sure the charging is as efficient as possible, but on the hook it would be nice to have a decent power source that won't risk me getting home.......

Currently it's just the 2-27's with no separation from the house to the starter. Yes the MBSS will eliminate that if I leave it on 1 or 2, but I would like to separate both systems

[Ssounder]

I have the standard manual 1-2-Both-Off as well. Just trying to check the consensus to see if this is the best way to go. Should be simple to hook the starting battery to #1, a couple house batteries to #2. From what I understand is that you should charge each bank separately on A/C. The exception is while you are running you can have the switch in the Both position to top off with the alternator.

[tolly28]

The way I'm set up, which works great for me is:

Four golf cart batteries for house bank, with On-Off switch.

One Group 27 start battery with 1-2-Both-Off Switch. #1 position connected to start bank, #2 position connected to house bank switch to allow banks to be paralelled when switch is in "Both" position.

ACR between banks.

With this setup, I am able to be away from the dock for at least four days without any issues.

I've thought of going with the Blue Sea switch I was referring to, to clean things up and eliminate one switch. While my boat is out having "major surgery", I'm going to clean up some wiring in the process and may do so...

[Ssounder]

Sounds like we have a similar setup and questions Todd. I just want to do this once and if there is an upgrade path, purchase compatible equipment to meet the final solution.

[Ssounder]

Steve, can you elaborate on the benefits of the ACR?

[tolly28]

Blue sea would do a much better job explaining it...


Battery Isolators, Automatic Charging Relays (also called ACR’s , combiners, or voltage sensitive relays) are all intended to keep a load (or loads) from discharging the reserve battery system. The reserve battery system is used for vital loads like engine starting, navigation or communications. Battery Isolators and ACR’s are intended to distribute current from a charging source to all batteries, but leave the batteries isolated during discharge conditions so they are only impacted by their own loads.

Battery Isolators are made with two or more silicon diodes that act like check valves. The diodes will pass current from the charging source to the batteries, but will not pass current backward from one battery to the other or back to the charging source. Nature extracts a price for this by causing a voltage drop of about 0.7 Volts across the diodes. If you have a regulated charging source that senses its own output, the voltage at the battery will be lower than at the charger or regulator and, if not compensated for, will lead to inadequate charging.

ACR's or Automatic Charging Relays are automatic switches that close when the voltage on one of the batteries rises to a level (normally 13.2V to 13.7V) indicating the battery is connected to a charge source and is partially or fully charged. The switch then closes and shares the charging current with the other battery until the voltage drops to some lower level (normally 12.4 to 13.1 depending on model) and the switch opens. This prevents discharging both batteries when there is not enough current to charge both batteries.

With the ACR or an isolator, the batteries are effectively connected together during charging and disconnected during discharge. The isolator is the simpler of the two approaches, when used with remote sensing chargers and regulators, but without remote sensing the isolator gives poor performance.

The ACR simplifies the system design because chargers and regulators that work with a single battery bank will still work with a multiple battery bank. Outboard motors and inverter / chargers have a single line that provides charge current, but can also absorb starting current or inverter current. They can't be connected through an isolator because the isolator will not permit the backward flow of energy when the source becomes an intended load.

There is an issue with multi-stage chargers which cut back to a lower charging voltage for "float." If the charger is supplying one lightly loaded battery directly and supplying a second battery through an ACR, and the second battery is the one that gets loaded, the system may not respond. The voltage of the first battery can be too low to trigger the ACR during the float stage while the loaded battery is being discharged. Because the ACR does not close, the multi-stage charger cannot see that the second battery needs charging current. This is usually resolved by connecting the multi-stage charger to the battery that has a load connected instead of connecting to the unloaded bank. Many multi-stage chargers also come with multiple outputs and the second output can be helpful in this situation and avoid loss of charge during the float stage.

ACR’s and Battery Isolators are a valuable addition to a battery management system and simplify charging multiple battery banks while protecting the reserve battery system. Below is a diagram of an ACR used in a two battery system.

http://bluesea.com/files/resources/inline_images/47984.jpg

[Ssounder]

Man, I gotta be careful with the word "elaborate". :lol:

[tolly28]

I have the standard manual 1-2-Both-Off as well. Just trying to check the consensus to see if this is the best way to go. Should be simple to hook the starting battery to #1, a couple house batteries to #2. From what I understand is that you should charge each bank separately on A/C. The exception is while you are running you can have the switch in the Both position to top off with the alternator.

The setup I am advocating is suited for larger loads, i.e. refrigerator, inverter, vaccuflush, etc.. A separate house bank makes sense with larger house loads

Depending on what sort of loads you are dealing with, your setup might be just fine the way it is. You can always add batteries...

[tolly28]

Man, I gotta be careful with the word "elaborate". :lol:

The Blue Sea website has a lot of information...

I spoke with the guys from Blue Sea a couple of years ago at our rendezvous, and they had a lot of knowledge to share...

[Ssounder]

My house needs are only stereo, lights, VHF, occasional DVD player - nothing large. Have not had problems in the 6+ seasons we've had the boat. 4 years on the current batteries (dual purpose). I'm always very careful though and a little paranoid when running the anchor light all night. I like having some extra juice in the house bat to supplement the starter if needed. I'm replacing the batteries this year and would like to upgrade if it's worth it.

[tolly28]

You know the old saying....." If it aint broke.......":cool:

[Ssounder]

Thanks for the info! :argh2

[Nehalennia]

You know the old saying....." If it aint broke.......":cool:


Thanks for the info! :argh2



Yeah sure he says that after he tells us how to break it.........:eek:

[tolly28]

I've always been good at breaking things...

[Nehalennia]

I've always been good at breaking things...

That's funny.

[SomeSailor]

Todd's 260 is gonna weigh more than my old 2859 soon if he's not careful... :)

[Nehalennia]

Todd's 260 is gonna weigh more than my old 2859 soon if he's not careful... :)

Not sure what that weighed but yeah, we'll see once we pack it full of gear.

[SomeSailor]

You'll need a big kicker just to get on plane... :D

[Nehalennia]

You'll need a big kicker just to get on plane... :D

Does kids in swimming lessons, count?
I sent you an e-mail...a few minutes ago. You didn't happen to get out in that van this week did you?

[SomeSailor]

Just for a heads up... I don't have much time during the week. I answered your email, but will likely make it out there today. I need to get "Das Wan" started anyhow. It hasn't moved since the end of summer. :)

[Nehalennia]

Just for a heads up... I don't have much time during the week. I answered your email, but will likely make it out there today. I need to get "Das Wan" started anyhow. It hasn't moved since the end of summer. :)
Thanks Mike

[sunnydude2]

Has your charger arrived yet? I just odered the 50amp ProNautic. Going to see how you and my buddy like the monitor before I replace the one on my boat.

[Nehalennia]

Has your charger arrived yet? I just odered the 50amp ProNautic. Going to see how you and my buddy like the monitor before I replace the one on my boat.

It hasn't arrived as yet. I'm thinking maybe tomorrow it may show.
I was looking over the weekend where I would like to put the monitor. Not knowing it's size, I'm not sure where I can install it. I have a part # but there's nothing on there new website yet

[Nehalennia]

ProMariner sent the tracking # today.
It should arrive today
:mrgreen:

[Nehalennia]

Ok, the new ProMariner "ProNautic 1240" charger has arrived and after reading it's capabilities I believe it is more than plenty for what I had expected. It is bigger than the old charger but I have made a plywood base I can reuse the existing holes of the current mounting spot and will mount it in the same place.
OLD ProMariner FlyBack 20-3
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o99/ToddOlason/Re-launch1-02-08.jpg
I also purchased the Digital Monitor I'll either mount next to the main dist panel or at the helm.
I would like to now buy and install theXantrex 1500 @ Costco $89 (http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11002843&whse=BC&topnav=&browse=&lang=en-US&s=1)
http://content.costco.com/Images/Content/Product/811255.jpg
wire it into the mid-cabin and back to the A/C input panel. I have not looked as yet if this is a good or feasable location, but I don't think I want it in the engine bay.

I only want to do this correctly and once.
Any feedback or advice is appreciated.

[SomeSailor]

Compute cable length in both directions. Keep DC runs as short as possible. Make sure you use half-cable lengths when calculating voltage drops and fuse that (+) wire. Tie your safety ground properly.

[sunnydude2]

Do not put it in the engine compartment! It is not ignition protected. I don't think the costco one is capable of being hard wired into the panel, you might need to look at the xantrex prowatt 1750. I will check my inverter from costco as it sits in the box as i type waiting for install.

[Nehalennia]

Do not put it in the engine compartment!

No, it's not going in the engine bay

[tolly28]

I have the Xantrex Pro 1000 and have been very happy with it. Also available in 1800 Watt. http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/198/p/1/pt/7/product.asp

http://www.xantrex.com//images/products/pro-series1000_800x600.jpg

For my purposes, 1000 watt has been just fine. I have mine wired to my AC panel. I have one circuit (house recepticles) that is hardwired to the inverter, and back to the panel. When the inverter is off and I'm plugged into shore power, the juice "passes through" the inverter. A nice feature is the nifty little control panel that you can mount anywhere to control the inverter.

It's been a great inverter for the past two years or so that I've had it! :) I think I paid aboout $250 for it.

[Nehalennia]

I have the Xantrex Pro 1000 and have been very happy with it. Also available in 1800 Watt. http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/198/p/1/pt/7/product.asp

http://www.xantrex.com//images/products/pro-series1000_800x600.jpg

For my purposes, 1000 watt has been just fine. I have mine wired to my AC panel. I have one circuit (house recepticles) that is hardwired to the inverter, and back to the panel. When the inverter is off and I'm plugged into shore power, the juice "passes through" the inverter. A nice feature is the nifty little control panel that you can mount anywhere to control the inverter.

It's been a great inverter for the past two years or so that I've had it! :) I think I paid aboout $250 for it.
That may be the one to go for, for the reasons you explained. Thanks. I'll look into that.

[1northernstar]

I have the Pro1800. Very happy with it and like the automatic switching function when plugged (or unplugged) to shorepower. I have the control panel remotely installed near my breaker panel (normal phone wire interface).

[Nehalennia]

I'm sold.
That does look like a good one, and the more I read on it the more I believe that will be a great choice.

[tolly28]

The 1000 works fine for me, but if I had it to do again, I'd go the 1800...

I also mounted the panel remotely- I have it right next to my AC panel.

[sunnydude2]

Todd...why don't we see any 'finished' pictures of the install yet? :) Mine arrived today and can't wait to get it installed this weekend.

[Go Aweigh2452]

Todd...why don't we see any 'finished' pictures of the install yet? :)

Because he's Scandinavian, not Finish...? :argh2

[Nehalennia]

Todd...why don't we see any 'finished' pictures of the install yet? :) Mine arrived today and can't wait to get it installed this weekend.

I know I know. I made the plywood base I'm mounting it too. I'm thinking now I may not install it until I get the inverter, but we'll see.

I want to do some boat and garage cleaning this weekend.

[Go Aweigh2452]

I want to do some boat and garage cleaning this weekend.

cmon Todd, tell the truth... you really don't want to clean the garage!!!

[Nehalennia]

cmon Todd, tell the truth... you really don't want to clean the garage!!!

No I don't, but want and need are two different things. I have so many project remnants in piles. I've been obsessed about the boat projects and the garage is like the dumpster for all of them....

[sunnydude2]

Is it in yet Todd? Going to attempt to install mine this saturday. Might have to rerun some wires as the new one has the 110v input at the top of the unit and the 12v charger leads at the bottom. The original blue boiler has all wires at the bottom.

[Nehalennia]

Is it in yet Todd? Going to attempt to install mine this saturday. Might have to rerun some wires as the new one has the 110v input at the top of the unit and the 12v charger leads at the bottom. The original blue boiler has all wires at the bottom.

I started installing it last weekend, but decided I want to bring it home to do it. I want to have more tools than what I brought and I also what to re-run some wires. Like yours the new ones and old ones are in a different location. I did make a plywood backing plate that I will reuse the existing installation holes to mount the backing plate, then the charger to it.

I may bring the boat home and do it tonight.

[Nehalennia]

Hey Sean.
I painted and installed the plywood backplate tonight and install the charger. I haven't terminated the leads yet, but if we decide to head out tomorrow, I'll do it before we go. I may even do it later tonight, but Mighty Mo's teaching tonight and I was on Mess hall duty with the twins.

All I have left to terminate it the Negative lead and the AC in.

I'm glad I installed the plywood, because the backing the factory laid down was too close for the new screw pattern the new charger has.

Anyway, if we do head to Blake I won't have to worry since they don't have power, but I'm minutes away.

[Nehalennia]

Ok, so as mentioned on Doug's Davit install. I'm not sure how that one got derailed.
Anyway I thought I'd update here. I mentioned that the charger is installed but the Helm remote did not respond. All it said was:
"NO COMMUNICATION PLEASE WAIT"

I figured that is may have an installation initiallization, but after 15 minutes and no responses to the power button and the backlighting did not come alive, I figured I received a bum remote.

Well a call this morning to ProMariner's Tech support, they believe I receive an older version remote which won't communicate with the ProNautic charger, which recently had a software upgrade apparently. You think they'd bench test this before it leaves especially if they know both units are going out together.

Anyway, I should get it Wednesday.

Also they are sending me the manual for the remote via e-mail.

[sunnydude2]

Cool. I might order one just to have it. Stopped by the boat last night after my game to check that the batteries weren't boiling over. They were all showing 13.6 and floating their way to full charge.

[Nehalennia]

Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll forward the Display manual to you.
It looks like it is pretty nice, once it works:cool:

[sunnydude2]

I had to stop by the boat last night to raise the trim tabs so Dagmars can lift the boat and adjust one of the pads. Checked on the charger. All lights green and the batteries are sitting at 13.6v so it must be working correctly.

Did realize the wires going from the charger to the batts is only 10awg and they recommend 6awg for the 1250. Luckily my father-in-law has some 4 he is delivering to me so I can make up new cables and not worry about the juice. The original charger was a 60amp 4 bank but they only used 10?

[Nehalennia]

I had to stop by the boat last night to raise the trim tabs so Dagmars can lift the boat and adjust one of the pads. Checked on the charger. All lights green and the batteries are sitting at 13.6v so it must be working correctly.

Did realize the wires going from the charger to the batts is only 10awg and they recommend 6awg for the 1250. Luckily my father-in-law has some 4 he is delivering to me so I can make up new cables and not worry about the juice. The original charger was a 60amp 4 bank but they only used 10?
So you have the ProNautic 1250? I have the 1240. What I'm curious is Since my boat's only wired for 30A, I assume that's all the charger will get. I still think this charger is overkill for my boat, but I will be adding another battery eventually so it should be good.

Your lights should show a "Float" light on by this point. I still need to install the DC grounding cable on mine. Luckily my grounding block is 8" away so it'll be a short cable and easy final piece. I should get the Monitor tomorrow.

[sunnydude2]

I think Mike can chime in on how the shore power connection works but I believe you will be putting 40A to your batteries.

I ran the grounding cable to the engine. Bought 20' and it took almost 15 to snake it there.

The charger was in Float mode but the light is still green.

[SomeSailor]

Don't confuse 40A DC current with what it takes to make that same current from 120V AC.

It's not 100% efficient... but figure about 8:1 in the conversion (80%). 40A DC would require only 5A of 120VAC.

A 30A shore power connection will make about 240A of DC. That's welder-sized DC. :)

[Nehalennia]

Don't confuse 40A DC current with what it takes to make that same current from 120V AC.
Well I did. I somehow didn't even think about that.

[Nehalennia]

My second Remote Monitor for the ProNautic arrived and I attempted to install it yesterday. Same problem "NO COMMUNICATION" stated on the remote. The last time they said it was a software issue so they send me a new display.
I called this morning and they have confirmed it may be the charger. SO!!! A new charger is on the way with the proper new software.
At least they're easy to work with.

[Go Aweigh2452]

At least they're easy to work with.

No wonder, sounds like they have the practice down well... :eek:

[sunnydude2]

Are they making you pay for the second charger or on the honor system that you will return it? I didn't order my remote directly from them and it should arrive on tuesday. I wonder if I might have a software mismatch issue as well?

Thanks for the update.

[Nehalennia]

Are they making you pay for the second charger or on the honor system that you will return it? I didn't order my remote directly from them and it should arrive on tuesday. I wonder if I might have a software mismatch issue as well?

Thanks for the update.

No they're not asking me to pay.
I have the remote displays at home. You can test one of mine before I return the one I won't need.

[sunnydude2]

That might just work. :)

[Nehalennia]

you're at Dagmars right?

[sunnydude2]

Yes we are. Will be up there on sunday hopefully if not tomorrow night. Tuesday night for sure as the name is being applied.

[Nehalennia]

Yes we are. Will be up there on sunday hopefully if not tomorrow night. Tuesday night for sure as the name is being applied.

Ok, I was going to say if you wanted to meet there in the morning I can lend it to you for the weekend or early next week.
I have a Tball game at 11:30 then I'm going down to join SSounder, Doug, Eagle and Stray cay in Longbranch.

[sunnydude2]

I am actually heading back from Bellingham first thing in the morning tomorrow. Shoot me your phone number and I will call you tonight to confirm. That would be cool to test it this weekend.

[Nehalennia]

Hey Sean.
I hope your charger install went good.

I finally have mine done. They sent the new charger (which has the correct firmware) and It works!!!

Here is the backboard I made
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o99/ToddOlason/FinalChargerinstall5-4-081.jpg

New Charger in place
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o99/ToddOlason/FinalChargerinstall5-4-084.jpg

Remote display install~ one more set of holes to drill
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o99/ToddOlason/FinalChargerinstall5-4-085.jpg

Done...and working nicely
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o99/ToddOlason/FinalChargerinstall5-4-088.jpg

[Go Aweigh2452]

Looks great Todd!!!

[sunnydude2]

Todd...I had mine hooked up and it worked. Just waiting to call them as they said it monitored all three banks but it appears to only give one banks voltage?

Your install looks good.

[Nehalennia]

Todd...I had mine hooked up and it worked. Just waiting to call them as they said it monitored all three banks but it appears to only give one banks voltage?

Your install looks good.

Yeah, I was looking for some sort of alternating screen showing each bank, but didn't see it.
It's seems if I have read appropriately that it's charging the lowest bank and then cycles through the banks, because I did see it alternate from 4 amps to 3 amps at one point. I only have 2 of the 3 banks working hooked up.
Now that it's done it does seem like a nice charger but I was hoping for a little more display features. Many of which will become not under such scrutiny as now.