View Full Version : Need Weaver Davits
2859er
03-09-2011, 06:46 PM
Hey all,
We just purchased a 9’8” inflatable rib and want to mount it on our swim step with some Weaver Snap Davits. Does anybody have some in good shape that need a new home?
Thanks,
Greg
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Go Aweigh2452
03-09-2011, 07:19 PM
http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/boa/2247745360.html
Couple of places to check out... You need to specify which kind you will need... or want...
http://www.shopping.com/weaver-davit-stand-off-craigslist/products
http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/boa/2247743546.html
http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/boa/2250136956.html
http://houston.craigslist.org/boa/2214887806.html
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/boa/2205714388.html
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/boa/2250158456.html
wickus
03-09-2011, 08:00 PM
defender.com if you want new
2859er
03-10-2011, 04:31 PM
Doug and Tally thanks for the input,
<O:p</O:p
I posted on the BOC as well about the davits and Yachtman (Dave Mclauchlin) from Spokane </ST1:psent me a PM. I called him on the phone this morning and he has an almost new (only used once) set of mounting plates, snap davits, and stand-offs for a very good price. All I need are the rubber pads.<O:p</O:p
We are planning to meet up this weekend and complete the transaction. I am excited!! :)
Greg<O:p</O:p
Go Aweigh2452
03-10-2011, 05:56 PM
Cool beans!!!
Play N Hookie II
03-11-2011, 02:23 PM
I bought the pads at Harbor Marine for I think $13 or maybe $26 a piece. Problem was that the glue costs like $42. You can use my leftover glue if you want to come get it. I have not used what I need yet, but intend to any day.
Doug and Tally thanks for the input,
<O:p</O:p
I posted on the BOC as well about the davits and Yachtman (Dave Mclauchlin) from Spokane </ST1:psent me a PM. I called him on the phone this morning and he has an almost new (only used once) set of mounting plates, snap davits, and stand-offs for a very good price. All I need are the rubber pads.<O:p</O:p
We are planning to meet up this weekend and complete the transaction. I am excited!! :)
Greg<O:p</O:p
Go Aweigh2452
03-11-2011, 02:38 PM
I'd call weaver and ask what they recommend for glue. There is a two part and one part...
2859er
03-11-2011, 04:03 PM
Hi Eric,
I appreciate the offer of the glue. It is rather expensive, about $50.00 for the adhesive, cleaner, catalyst, a couple of brushes, and mixing cups, but since is such a crucial component I think I will go with a new batch. I would hate to skimp on glue and have the pads come loose while at speed out on the water.
BTW I hope you get that boat of yours out on the water soon.:)
Greg
wickus
03-11-2011, 07:23 PM
good call, Greg. You only want to do this once. the remaining glue can be used for patches, repairs, etc.
SomeSailor
03-12-2011, 05:26 AM
If you're careful, you can split the glue into two halves and you'll be able to use it for two applications. It's measured by weight, so I used a small harbor freight gram scale and had good luck. You DEFINITLY wanna pay attention to the relative humidity part of the instructions though. The part I did down by the boat (the pads), took nearly a week to fully cure and it was not near as easy to work with because of the humidity down by the water.
2859er
03-12-2011, 01:48 PM
Thanks for the input on the glue.
Another question for those of you who use the stand-off rods. Which type standoff clips do you use. There are two kinds that Weaver sells, the L clip (stainless steel) and the Beckson Clip (plastic I think). Which do you recommend?
I am leaning to the stainless for durability.
L clip
http://i53.tinypic.com/260zn8w.jpg
Beckson Clip
http://i56.tinypic.com/4rqd7q.jpg
BTW I picked up the two davits, two 3' standoffs, and two quick kit davit plates today. Very cool.
Thanks,
Greg
Go Aweigh2452
03-12-2011, 03:18 PM
I had the L clip but always caught a piece of clothing on them when I was on the swim platform. I like the idea of the beckson clips. I would imagine you could fabricate a J hook to hold them in place when not in use. The ONLY reason I used the L clips was they came with the set up I bought from Weaver. ALso, if the standoffs are not long or short enough, Weaver has exchanged them for the proper size if that becomes a concern. Mine were set so the dink leaned against the standoffs and not away from the transom.
2859er
03-15-2011, 04:12 PM
The new Silver Marine Angel Dink came yesterday. I am excited. Now to purchase the Weaver pads and glue and mount them on the side.
http://i56.tinypic.com/3142jpl.jpg
http://i55.tinypic.com/120mdyu.jpg
Papa Charlie
03-15-2011, 06:31 PM
Nice looking dink Greg. You will get some real enjoyment out of it. Now, if you don't already have one, you just need an outboard. We are looking also right now for a used one. There are a few out there. Figure if we get another boat we will keep the dink and motor that is the best and sell the other one with the Bayliner.
wickus
03-15-2011, 06:45 PM
that is a sweet ride, Greg
Go Aweigh2452
03-15-2011, 06:57 PM
The dink looks even better in person!
Great looking dink Greg and thanks to you and Cynthia for your hospitality... I forgot to offer to help drag it inside so you can set it up correctly... ;{
We are all excited about our upcoming summers on our boats!
2859er
03-15-2011, 08:05 PM
Thanks guys we are very excited about it and our upcoming summer.
<O:p</O:p
Doug and Lea it was great to see you, you are welcome anytime. Have a great trip. :)
We won't drag it into the house until we get the davit pads, not sure Cynthia would enjoy climbing over it to get around in the house, although I wouldn't mind. LOL
Pat,
I have a 15 HP 2 stroke that we use as a kicker, I will see if that will work on the dink as well. I know it won't be too heavy, if I can just stay off of the throttle..........:mrgreen:<O:p</O:p
Randygh
03-15-2011, 09:43 PM
Doug and Lea stopped by my office Monday for a short visit. It was great to see you two and hope you have a safe fun trip. I bet it won't take long to really miss your dogey. He may be ok, but you'll be homesick for the big lug.
Greg--does your new dink have two board-seats? It will be great for setting and retrieving crab pots.
2859er
03-16-2011, 05:38 AM
Greg--does your new dink have two board-seats? It will be great for setting and retrieving crab pots.
Hi Randy,
It only came with one seat, but there are slots for two. It wouldn't be hard to fabricate another one though. Still have to get the crab pot and line.
jwishart
03-16-2011, 01:44 PM
You will like the Silver Marine. We have beat the crap out of ours by dragging it up and down rocks and barnacles. Never had a hole in it and never had problems with the fiberglass.
Also, Weaver makes adjustable standoffs (which I purchased) if you have problems with the length.
2859er
03-16-2011, 04:51 PM
You will like the Silver Marine. We have beat the crap out of ours by dragging it up and down rocks and barnacles. Never had a hole in it and never had problems with the fiberglass.
Also, Weaver makes adjustable standoffs (which I purchased) if you have problems with the length.
Thanks Jeff, that is good to know.
2859er
03-20-2011, 03:12 PM
Good News: My dink will fit on the swim step with the Weaver Davit System.
Good News: My kicker will also fit on the swim step.
Bad News: They both won’t fit at the same time.
There will have to be some adjustments made. I like the way SomeSailor’s swim step is shortened to accommodate his kicker.
1495
I have a transom mount for my kicker I can use, and when I get rich, I would like to swap it out for a Troll-Eaze (sp?) mount.
<O:p</O:p
Not real sure how to begin resizing the swim step. I think I’ll get some help from some people at school who have some experience with this kind of thing.
<O:p</O:p
Any hints or advice?
SomeSailor
03-20-2011, 04:52 PM
I like the way SomeSailor’s swim step is shortened to accommodate his kicker.
I didn't do mine, but it sure is nice. He cut it right at the seam and it's hard to tell it's not factory. With it all the way up, they both fit (dinghy and kicker). I do have to partially lower the dinghy to get the kicker past this new larger dinghy, but it's pretty easily done. Once it's down I can run on the kicker with the dinghy in place. Sometimes I just drop the dinghy and leave it dragging along behind in the davits. It looks a bit weird, but slows me down really well for slow trolling for those big kings. :)
2859er
03-20-2011, 05:07 PM
Hey Mike,
If it isn't too much trouble, the next time you are down at the boat could you snap some pics of your swim step. I would be particularly interested in where the cuts were made and how the two parts were reconnected.<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
Thanks,<O:p</O:p
Greg<O:p</O:p
SomeSailor
03-20-2011, 07:46 PM
Sure thing.
2859er
03-23-2011, 05:38 PM
Hey Mike,
I pulled the swim step off of the boat today. As I was looking at it I decided an important measurement to have would be the distance from one end of the swim step to the other. So when you snap the pics of the cuts could you get that measurement too?
I would really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Greg
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2859er
04-01-2011, 06:49 PM
We are on spring break, no school for a week Yeahhhhhhh. Going to West Marine tomorrrow to pick up some stainless steel hardware to mount the kicker bracket on the transom.
Then I am going to try and figure out how to cut down the swim step to clear the kicker mount............ Still scratching my head on that one......
Wish me luck.
Go Aweigh2452
04-02-2011, 03:55 AM
Enjoy your well earned break and good luck on the swim step work... If your cut is a tad off, you could add some white trim over it so don't worry too much... It's plastic so don't cut fast enough to melt it and jam the saw...
SomeSailor
04-02-2011, 04:10 AM
Then I am going to try and figure out how to cut down the swim step to clear the kicker mount............ Still scratching my head on that one......
Wish me luck.
I have the measurements here (took them earlier in the but haven't had time to draw them up). Gimme a few hours and I'll do that for you this morning. I also too some pictures for ya of how mine is cut down. Make sure your kicker gets deep enough. You don't want it cavitating in the small rollers.
SomeSailor
04-02-2011, 05:35 AM
Here ya go Greg. Here's how mine is cut. I looks like he cut and epoxied the underside first and then ground down the diamond tread to get the look on the top.
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2859er
04-02-2011, 05:49 AM
That is a big help Mike. I really appreciate your taking the time to get the photos and measurements for me. :)
Greg
2859er
04-04-2011, 03:31 PM
The Weaver Davits thread has morphed into a swimstep mod thread. But soon it will morph back to the Weaver Davits when the swimstep is finished.
Thanks to Mike's measurements we were able to chop the swimstep today and prepped it for the rejoining process. Here are some pics of the cut and prepped swimstep.
http://i54.tinypic.com/ioktxz.jpg
http://i54.tinypic.com/2ymaqmo.jpg
Tomorrow the plan is to join the two parts together. We picked up some West Systems materials and some fiberglass mat, oh and the book that tells you how to use it.
So far so good. :)
SomeSailor
04-04-2011, 05:55 PM
You'll love it Greg. The ability to drop that kicker is HUGE. Can't wait to see it.
Randygh
04-04-2011, 06:51 PM
Is the swimstep constructed to custom cut according to the need for a kicker and dinghy? It looks like Greg cut the step at a seam that was built to be cut? Great idea being able to cut the step without causing major weakness or instablility in the step. :?:
2859er
04-05-2011, 09:54 AM
Is the swimstep constructed to custom cut according to the need for a kicker and dinghy? It looks like Greg cut the step at a seam that was built to be cut? Great idea being able to cut the step without causing major weakness or instablility in the step. :?:
Hi Randy,
I don't think the makers of the swimstep had cutting it in mind, there really was no seam there. The measurements Mike gave me worked out really well. I am in the process of putting it back together now using the West System 105 Resin, 205 Hardener, 406 Colloidal Silica, fiberglass roving, and marine plywood. It seems to be coming along, but is taking a long time to cure; it is 40 degrees over here. I am over engineering the bracing, so there will be no chance of failure later.
Go Aweigh2452
04-05-2011, 04:17 PM
Looking pretty professional there Greg!
SomeSailor
04-06-2011, 04:34 AM
Here's a trick for filling the holes in the diamond tread. Stop by your local Walmart or Target and pick up a couple of eggs of Silly Putty. Fill the hole with epoxy, but stay below the surface. Press the silicone down into an area next to your repair and then fill the rest of the hole repair with white gelcoat (sparingly). Draw a line on the Silly Putty referencing fore / aft and then lift it and carefully place it on your repair. Gently align it to the diamond pattern and sit a block of wood on it and leave it to cure. Once it's cured it will release and you'll have a perfect diamond pattern where your holes were.
2859er
04-06-2011, 08:57 AM
Here's a trick for filling the holes in the diamond tread. Stop by your local Walmart or Target and pick up a couple of eggs of Silly Putty. Fill the hole with epoxy, but stay below the surface. Press the silicone down into an area next to your repair and then fill the rest of the hole repair with white gelcoat (sparingly). Draw a line on the Silly Putty referencing fore / aft and then lift it and carefully place it on your repair. Gently align it to the diamond pattern and sit a block of wood on it and leave it to cure. Once it's cured it will release and you'll have a perfect diamond pattern where your holes were.
Now that is trick!!! I was just going to fill them and top it with gelcoat and call it good. But now I'll see if I can make the silly putty diamond pattern work.
Thanks Mike.
It looks like we will be finishing up with the resin and glassing work today. We brought the swimstep inside and took it down to the basement which makes it much warmer for us and helps the resin to cure faster too.
Here's a trick for filling the holes in the diamond tread. Stop by your local Walmart or Target and pick up a couple of eggs of Silly Putty. Fill the hole with epoxy, but stay below the surface. Press the silicone down into an area next to your repair and then fill the rest of the hole repair with white gelcoat (sparingly). Draw a line on the Silly Putty referencing fore / aft and then lift it and carefully place it on your repair. Gently align it to the diamond pattern and sit a block of wood on it and leave it to cure. Once it's cured it will release and you'll have a perfect diamond pattern where your holes were.
Now that's a trick worth noting!
wickus
04-06-2011, 06:29 PM
buahahahahahaha :)
2859er
04-06-2011, 06:42 PM
You'll love it Greg. The ability to drop that kicker is HUGE. Can't wait to see it.
What's up Angel? Done any boating lately?
2859er
04-07-2011, 08:15 AM
Update:
Glasses, glued, sanded, ready for gelcoat.
The bottom isn't pretty, but it will hold.
http://i55.tinypic.com/2v36984.jpg
The top looks better.
http://i52.tinypic.com/2myn8r7.jpg
Go Aweigh2452
04-07-2011, 12:48 PM
I suppose I will have to see the entire thing when done... I am not sure how it is supposed to end up looking like? Looks like you added a couple of inches?
Looking forward to seeing it done...
never mind, I see what you did... I thought you were going to have a swim step on both sides of the kicker... Now I see you shorten the swim step so the kicker clears it totally... got it...
I'll be adding a "kicker holder" to the transom for my 3.5 so I can store it on the transom vertical in front of the 9.9 kicker...
2859er
04-07-2011, 01:05 PM
Now I see you shorten the swim step so the kicker clears it totally... got it...
I'll be adding a "kicker holder" to the transom for my 3.5 so I can store it on the transom vertical in front of the 9.9 kicker...
Yep you got it. The first coat of gelcoat is curing. Kinda like watching paint dry. I did it in the basement due to the cold out in the garage, now the house is full of gelcoat fumes......oops. LOL. Good thing the Admiral is not home, hope it clears out by the time she gets home or I will be in the dog house. Oh well....
Where is your kicker mount going on your transom?
SomeSailor
04-07-2011, 06:29 PM
It's tough on the taller 2859 to get a kicker deep in the water. With the shortened swim step and hydraulic lift it works great.
2859er
04-07-2011, 06:41 PM
Right, the kicker would cavitate with even a little chop. I won't have the hydraulic lift, but one with a spring assist mechanism. Looking forward to getting the swimstep finished so I can mount the dink. Then with the dink on the swimstep I will be able to line up the kicker mount.
Go Aweigh2452
04-08-2011, 01:51 AM
On old Go Aweigh we had the spring assisted kicker mount also and it was easy to use. I had to push it down to release and automatically recover in the up position. Worked well that way. I would assume yours works in similar fashion?
Greg, the kicker mount will go above and to the port side of the name on the stern. It will sit almost even with the current 9.9 as you look at the stern... I really dislike having it there but it makes more sense to me since it will only hang there when we carry the dink. I am considering an alternative attachment to have the kicker mount be removable so when the dink is not on the transom, It would look cleaner... w/o the mount sitting there...
So if any one has a good idea on making it removable, let me know...
2859er
04-08-2011, 05:16 AM
On old Go Aweigh we had the spring assisted kicker mount also and it was easy to use. I had to push it down to release and automatically recover in the up position. Worked well that way. I would assume yours works in similar fashion?
Yes, that is how it works. :)
SomeSailor
04-08-2011, 10:41 AM
Just make sure you keep it low. You wanna keep that prop as wet as possible.
2859er
04-08-2011, 02:12 PM
Just make sure you keep it low. You wanna keep that prop as wet as possible.
Gotcha.
SomeSailor
04-10-2011, 05:38 AM
Hey Greg, have you posted your project over on www.bayliner2859.com (http://www.iboatnw.com/forum/www.bayliner2859.com)? I'm sure there'd be some guys who'd love to see your handiwork.
2859er
04-10-2011, 07:00 AM
Thanks Mike, I went ahead and posted the project over there. The concept is solid; the jury is still out on the handiwork.
Go Aweigh2452
04-10-2011, 07:59 AM
When you are done you ought to blog the step by step with photos and measurements too.
2859er
04-14-2011, 06:10 PM
Last coat of gelcoat, I hope. Filled the holes almost to the top with resin and let it set up. Next I topped off the holes with gelcoat. Used the silly putty to get an impression of the surface, then planted the silly putty over the top of the gelcoat, wiped away the excess.
Now it is wait and see time.
The 4 holes that were not sealed are where the bolts go for my ladder.
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Go Aweigh2452
04-14-2011, 06:25 PM
Dang, that looks great... nice job Greg
Papa Charlie
04-14-2011, 07:50 PM
Ya Greg, You may have a new calling. That looks great.
Wonder how the silly puddy handles the heat of the gel coat as it cures. Seems like it would melt the puddy.
2859er
04-14-2011, 09:08 PM
Ya Greg, You may have a new calling. That looks great.
Wonder how the silly puddy handles the heat of the gel coat as it cures. Seems like it would melt the puddy.
Thanks Pat, but once is enough. :)
We'll find out, but I have not been able to detect any heat at all as the gelcoat I am using cures. It is geneic West Marine Gelcoat.
SomeSailor
04-15-2011, 04:27 AM
Hopefully you were able to line up the grids pretty well through the gelcoat and none of your little tread marks got squished. If you lost any definition, you can still work it over with a Dremel to get the little peaks and valleys. They actually use a silicone sheet during the manufacturing process to get that pattern. I've thought about making some with my laser (engraving the pattern in reverse onto silicone sheets), but the silly putty works well for small spots.
2859er
04-16-2011, 02:50 PM
I finished the swim step, or so I thought. I went to put it on the boat and it didn't quite fit, it fit, but I had to load it pretty heavy to get it to line up on the transom. I made the tab on the port side just a little too fat, between an eight and a quarter of an inch.
So I pulled it off and am in the process of shaving down the tab. I probably could have gone with it, but I just didn't want to pre stress it out with the mounting bolts before I even put the weight of the dink on it. I would hate to get half way to nowhere and have it develop a crack.
No big deal I want to get it as right as I can.
The silly putty worked ok. It was hard to get the gelcoat at the right level, even with the hole. Some holes ended up a little too full, some not quite full enough, some right on. But that is being too picky. I think it looks better than if I had left a flat top on the holes.
Here are the pics of the finished step minus the trimmed up tab.
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Go Aweigh2452
04-16-2011, 05:26 PM
Really looks good Greg... I think it will pay by making the tab fit right. You spent too much time and effort getting this far to take a short cut...
"never enough time to do it right but you can always find enough time to do it again"
2859er
04-16-2011, 07:19 PM
I thinks so too Doug........
Well, I took off a blade width plus off the tab and it is a perfect fit. I am happy. Now to let the gelcoat set up overnight and bolt it up to the transom. :)
SomeSailor
04-19-2011, 06:58 PM
Bub-Bye Ed123 :)
2859er
04-22-2011, 03:20 PM
The swimstep is installed except for two bolts that go into the transom on the port side. I did not plan for those two bolts to be longer than the originals due to the inclusion of the tab that I needed.
Right now the dink is hanging from the rafters in my garage in the position that it will fit on the step so I can measure for the davits.
Here are some pics:
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voyager
04-22-2011, 04:23 PM
looks good where did you find the support poles for the swim step? I need to replace mine with some stronger ones.
2859er
04-22-2011, 04:58 PM
Thanks, I just reused the ones that were there. The support on the far port side was relocated inboard to fit the resized step.
Doug added an extra swimstep support to his boat hopefully he will chime in.
Go Aweigh2452
04-22-2011, 05:27 PM
Yeah, I bought a 6 ft 5/8" stainless steel pole from the guy who installed our camper back. All I did was measure the length I needed and put each end in a vice and screwed them into the transom and swim step. I have wanted to do that for a while now because I have a large cooler and the 9.9 Big Foot Merc plus me when I want something out of the cooler or need to lift or lower the 9.9. That's a lot of weight... so I added a support directly under the kicker... I'm thinking of adding the extra 5/8" stainless someday to the other side but it is not on my priority list currently. (Too busy doing yard work and buffing the hull (still)). Here is a photo of the new support...
Second strut in from front is the new one:
http://www.bremertonnjrotc.com/goaweighto/swimstep/IMGP1240sm.jpg
Strut screwed into the transom... plenty of 3M 5200...
http://www.bremertonnjrotc.com/goaweighto/swimstep/IMGP1239sm.jpg
Papa Charlie
04-24-2011, 07:48 PM
Greg,
That looks great!
You do awfully nice work there. One thing, are you sure that the kicker and the tender won't interfere with each other. You probably already have this thought out but if not, you might want to install the kicker first to ensure that you don't have any clearance issues while lowering, raising or operating the kicker. Just a thought.
2859er
04-25-2011, 05:29 AM
Thanks Pat,
I really won't be able to lower the kicker with the dink on the swimstep. There is just no room for that. I will have to launch the dink if I want to deploy the kicker. That is the only downside to this setup.
SomeSailor
04-25-2011, 04:07 PM
Mine's set up that way too. If you space it right, you can do it. With my older smaller dink, I could kick the kicker hard to port and and lower it right around the nose of the dinghy. In this installation I put the nose on the starboard side but I have to drop the dink to lower the kicker all the way down. Only takes seconds and is a good trade-off for the increased room when boarding.
wickus
04-25-2011, 06:50 PM
What i found, and Mike is hinting at is that the nose of the dink, or the points of the stern pontoons offer some "play" if you look at it carefully. The nose of my dink hangs out a little further than what seems prudent, but the plus side is I can walk out of the boat on the stern side with no encombrances with the dink up. Look at it carefully and consider the distance from the upslanted potions of the dink as you mount the davits
2859er
04-25-2011, 07:19 PM
Yes, when the level of Lake Pend Oreille rises I plan on taking the boat and the dink, dropping them both in the water, Then I'll tie the boat up on a float and swing the dink around to the stern and line up the dink and measure and mark for davit pads. I want to be sure I have clearance at the starboard side to clear the float, and I want the davits to line up so I can drop the dink in the water and still have the davits attached in a way that they do not stress the dink tube. I will also be able to line up the stand off poles as well making sure they do not obstruct the transom door exit and entry.
Then I can glue on the pads. Then I can mount the davits on the step. I want to mount them as far aft as possible to give me as much room as possible so the kicker clears the dink.
Then I can mount the kicker bracket and kicker. I will need to make a shim that will go between the kicker mount and the transom as the angle is wrong. There is enough room but to get the angle I need a shim will have to be fabricated. I plan on making it out of marine plywood and sealing it with resin, and painting it with gelcoat and polishing and buffing it out.
As a fail safe, if I find there is not enough room for the kicker between the transom and dink I can fabricate some davit extensions that will fit into the davit shoe and bolt or weld to the snap davits. I can gain an easy 4 inches aft that way if I need to. But I think I'll be fine without the extensions. But it is always good to have a plan B.
I want to make sure I consider all of the important factors because once I glue on the pads, I don't want to be taking them off.:x
What have I missed?
Go Aweigh2452
04-26-2011, 05:54 AM
Good plan Greg... I would use starboard as a shim vice marine ply. Eventually, no matter how well you seal the wood, it will start to look like carp eventually. With starboard, you won't have that concern. Starboard is very easy to cut and shape too. I used it on old Go Aweigh to lift my Weaver Davits on the swim step. I think I used 3 under each one to lift it high enough (about 1.5") to clear my Honda 9.9 and have it up high enough that it would not "catch" water from hole shots, etc...
2859er
04-30-2011, 02:22 PM
We just got back from the lake. We were able to launch on the steeeeep ramp, the lake level is still very low. Got the measurements we needed, and got the pads glued up. Had to bring the dink in the house to do it as thunder storms rolled in and the temps dropped. We'll keep the dink in the house until the glue cures.
Didn't get a chance to do much else as we could tell the bad weather was on the way. Up here in the mountains the weather can turn on a dime, especially in the spring in the afternoons. We got home just as the thunderstorms hit. :shock:
Papa Charlie
05-01-2011, 08:42 AM
Very cool Greg, It should work great. You have taken the time to lay it out and do it right. Always best to take a little longer, do it right the first time and enjoy it. Too often people get in a hurry and pay for a poorly thought out or executed job for years to come.
Sounds like your timing was perfect at the lake.
2859er
05-07-2011, 09:42 AM
Hey Mike,
I have the measurements of the shim that will fit between the transom and the kicker bracket. The height is 8 inches, length 8 inches, width at the top 1 and 7/8 inches, width at the bottom 3 and 7/16 inches.
Are you still interested in cutting this out on your CNC Router? I will be happy to pay for the materials and your time. Would Starboard work? I haven’t seen it in blocks that thick. Marine plywood would work. I could lay on a few coats of resin and finish it in gelcoat.
Greg<O:p</O:p
2859er
05-27-2011, 07:11 PM
Another chapter in the never ending project. Instead of going with a shim to get my kicker bracket to fit Mike suggested a mod on the bracket itself, a couple of new parts where it mounts to the ransom. So I took it down to the fabricator and he built them for me. I also had to make some extensions for the davits to get the dink to clear the kicker. Waiting for the glue to dry on the stand off pads, then I can install the stand offs on the transom, then this project will be finished.
Thanks for the tip Mike. :)
Here are some pics.
1537
1536
1539
1538
Papa Charlie
05-27-2011, 10:59 PM
Look really good Greg, can't wait to see it in FH. I am considering removing the davits from my swim step and installing a couple of cleats to tie up the Whaler to instead. Plus it will get those long stand-offs off the back of the transom. Because they have been lengthened and are straight and the stern is rounded slightly, they tend to stick out.
SomeSailor
05-28-2011, 05:25 AM
Looks great Greg. My boat has a custom set of Weavers just to get around the issue you're talking about. I'll have to take some pics so you can see them. There are some pretty good dynamic loads back there when the boat bounces. Keep an eye on those. Nice clean install, and I'm sure you're gonna love the shortened swimstep. Very cool mod for a 2859 or 2452.
wickus
06-16-2011, 06:52 PM
ya know what suks as much as cheapwatche?
I do.
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