Windlass install

[voyager]

Ok I pulled the trigger on a Lewmar Profish 1000 at the boat show so now I need to get it installed. I have asked some of these question on the boat show thread but I thought I would post it under it's own heading. I have been doing some research but I am open to all the help I can get. Electricity is just not one of my strengths. I mean I can understand it but it does not come naturally to me, I have to force myself to concentrate.

I have a inverter in the forward v-birth port side with two AGM batteries. From reading on line invertors are not hooked up to the boats charging system, they depend on shore power alone to charge. Mine is not hooked into the boat charging system so I assume that is the right way to do it. It makes sense so when the inverter kicks on from shore power it would not be sending a charge back though the system, is that correct? Is there a way to tie the inverter in so the batterys will charge off the boat’s charging system? If that can be done I can hook the windlass into those batteries. But that leaves me with running heavy gauge at least #4 wire from the engine room forward.

The other option I have thought about is another dedicated battery in the v-birth. If I take the dedicated battery route is it possible to come off the fuse panel under the lower helm and run wire to the battery to charge it from the boats charging system? And then run the heavy wire from the battery to the windlass? Thus eliminating the expense and hassel of running wire all the way forward from the engine compartment?
<O:p
I may also have to raise the windlass up to match the height of the anchor pulpit. Can I just use a piece of wook incased in glass for this? Or would it be better to use Starboard or some other material?

[2859er]

Hmm, inverters take 12 volts DC current from the batteries and change it into 120 volts AC current. The batteries get their power from the boats alternator, generator, or a charger connected to shore power.

What is the power source for your two batteries in the bow?

Since your batteries are in the bow you should be able to run your power from them to the windlass, like you said a short wire run is better.

You should be able to use a wood block enclosed in fiberglass to get mount your windlass on.

[Papa Charlie]

You are going to need battery size cables to run that windlass. It needs to go back to the engine room and have a large fuse liink installed on the hot side. By the time you get through trying to get around this you will have spend as much money as it would take to just run the wires the right way. Also check on Ebay. I have purchased battery cables on there for less than I could have purchased the welding cable for.
I have a cable size calculator that I will post when I get home. These motors when pulling up a lot of chain or against a heavy load will pull a lot of amperage. Size right. Besides you don't want batteries in your cabin and if you do you need the closed type which cost more than the cable.

[SomeSailor]

On the 2859, I ran 00 welding cable from the batts (fused at 250A) and up to a buss forward. There's a breaker there that feeds the windlass and its like 6 AWG from there. Welding cable is the size of your thumb and will carry more current than your batteries will ever make. I think it was $2/foot or so.

[voyager]

Ok I already have two batteries in the v birth for the inverter. Right now the inverter is charged by shore power only. Is there a way to hook the inverter into the boats charging system? <o:p></o:p>

[Go Aweigh2452]

Ok I already have two batteries in the v birth for the inverter. Right now the inverter is charged by shore power only. Is there a way to hook the inverter into the boats charging system? <o:p></o>

You mean hook the batteries into the charging system... yes, depending on your charger. Most smart chargers can handle that, mine can handle three batteries but I only have two leads being used. The third battery is being charged with the second one. SO, what I am saying, is you can dedicate a charge wire to the V berth batteries without a problem.

As far as running wire to the windlass, mine called for 10 gauge and that is what I ran. 00 Welding wire is overkill but if it works for ya, why not...

[voyager]

You mean hook the batteries into the charging system... yes, depending on your charger. Most smart chargers can handle that, mine can handle three batteries but I only have two leads being used. The third battery is being charged with the second one. SO, what I am saying, is you can dedicate a charge wire to the V berth batteries without a problem.

As far as running wire to the windlass, mine called for 10 gauge and that is what I ran. 00 Welding wire is overkill but if it works for ya, why not...


Ok so now I have a few more questions. Does the wire have to come from the alternator or can it come from the fuse panel under the lower helm? and what size should the wire be? Also what happens when the invertor turns on when it detects shorepower and starts charging the battieries? Will that feed back through the wire to the house battieries? and will that damage the charger in the engine room that charges those?

[voyager]

OK I have been reading the west advisor and according to the info there I will need #2 wire. It is sized by the amps and the lenght of the run round trip so the windlass has a 70 amp breaker, and it will be at least a 60 ft round trip by the time it goes from the engine room through the cave, the head and who know what else and ends up at the bow. I also checked on size of wire to use for charging a battery and it would be basically the same size so that will not save any money unless I can hook into the fuse panel under the lower helm.

So if I do have to start in the engine room at the house batteries than I would like to find a way to wire the inverter battieries in so they will charge off of the alternator.

[bradvo]

I can't give advice at this time, if I did your boat would be in danger of stray current corrosion then sinking. ....

[2859er]

Ok so now I have a few more questions. Does the wire have to come from the alternator or can it come from the fuse panel under the lower helm? and what size should the wire be? Also what happens when the invertor turns on when it detects shorepower and starts charging the battieries? Will that feed back through the wire to the house battieries? and will that damage the charger in the engine room that charges those?

Inverters don't charge batteries unless it is an inverter/charger. Is that what you have?

Since you already have a battery bank near the bow it might be best to wire in your windlass from those forward batteries. Question how are those batteries charged? Are they connected your alternator? To your onboard charger? To a generator?

[voyager]

Yes, sorry it is an inverter/charger I think it is the Xantrex freedom 2000 if I remember right. Right now they charge from shore power only but it seems to me that I should be able to wire them into the switch in the engine bay and maybe use the inverter/charger to charge the house batteries and the inverter batteries and then use the charger in the engine bay to charge the start batteries only. And with two engines I could wire one of the alternators to the start bank and the other one to the house bank. But I have two deep cycle golf cart batteries for the house bank and AGM for the inverter, so would that make a difference?

[SomeSailor]

Read the manual on the windlass. (HERE) (http://www.lewmar.com/cms%5Cassets%5C1%5****erature/B10490%20Iss2%20Pro%20Series-Fish_English.pdf)

Figure the TWO-WAY distance on the install. I'd guess you're at least 40 feet each way (80' round trip). The load is protected by the 70A breaker, so that cable will need to be able to take that much to get the break to trip for ya in a current overload. 2 AWG would work (90A rated) and then fuse it with a slow blow fuse at the battery for twice the rated amperage (200A) and you're all set.

The least I would go with would be 2AWG though. I bought mine at cost and I also ran the inverter off that same buss so I opted for the extra amperage. If it were me, I'd run up off the rear batts, to a switch and then to the forward AGMs. Then you could recharge the house while underway if you wanted, or vice versa from the genset if you needed to or wanted to.

[Papa Charlie]

Here is a calculator that will help you with this. http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/Some of the parameters I entered into it were

<tbody>





Voltage

12 V



Load Current

70 amps



Length Of Run

100 ft



Allowable Voltage Drop

10%



Type of Load

Variable



Temperature Rating

105C






Located In Engine Room

Yes



Duration of Run

15 minutes







</tbody>


And the results are:


DC Wire Selection:


<tbody>
Recommended Wire:


AWG 2


Capacity with derating factors: 178 amps.


The wire you select must be large enough to meet both ampacity and voltage drop requirements. These are the wire sizes this circuit needs to meet each requirement:


Ampacity (Additional Derating Factors):
Ampacity (ABYC Standards Only):
Voltage Drop (ABYC):


AWG 6
AWG 6
AWG 2

</tbody>

[2859er]

So you have two AGM batteries in the bow connected to an inverter/charger, two golf cart batteries as a house bank that charge via your alternator and the engine bay charger when connected to shore power, and two staring batteries that charge via your alternator and the engine bay charger when connected to shore power. Is that right?

And you have a twin engine boat. Right now does one alternator charge the house bank golf cart batteries and the other alternator charge the starting batteries? That is common from what I have read.

You will want to connect your AGMs to one of your alternators. But here is where I am not sure. From what I have read it is not best practice to connect batteries of different types together such as lead acid and AGMs or lead acid and Gel, etc. Others will have to advise....... But you might want to look into connecting one of your alternators to charge your house bank/golf cart and starting batteries, and the other alternator to charge your AGMs.

Your system actually has three battery banks; I only have two, so your system is more than I have had to deal with. I hope others can chime in and give you the info you need to finish off the project. Possibly even draw up a nice schematic for you as well. I do think that those forward batteries provide a great source to drive your windlass though.<O:p</O:p

[voyager]

Well I have been online checking prices for wire and that stuff is EXPENSIVE the best deal I have found is around $2.20 per <st1:PlaceType w:st="on">ft.</st1:PlaceType> For some reason black seems to be cheaper than red. Is there any reason I can’t use all black? I am thinking about finding the best deal I can on 100 feet of this stuff.
<O:p</O:p
My plan right now is to run from one of the alternators to the inverter/charger and then on to the windlass. I will need to trace things down in the engine room and wire the start and house batteries in the engine room into the other alternator. I think I can do this at the switch. Will that be to much draw on one alternator? I am thinking I will be OK?
<O:p</O:p
The other thing I was thinking about was using a bus bar at the inverter/charger to wire things into that way I can branch off of it? Would that work if I get it wired right so I will be able to charge those batteries from shore power or the alternator. I may need one of you electrical minded guys to check what I have wired up before I flip any power on. Of course that could solve the whole insurance survey issue and get me a gigger boat. Just kidding.

[bradvo]

If your ready to move up I'll give ya advice now on wiring.....:lol:


I've seen all black on my old boat with red tape around the wire at critical points to show positive , they were short runs...I don't like it myself.

[Papa Charlie]

If your ready to move up I'll give ya advice now on wiring.....:lol:


I've seen all black on my old boat with red tape around the wire at critical points to show positive , they were short runs...I don't like it myself.

This is an acceptable way to do this. Nicer to use the red insulated wire but not necessary or required. Requirement is that is be marked.

[voyager]

The red tape was what I had in mind. If I buy a 100 ft length then I have a chance of ending up with a usable length when I am done. If I buy two 50 foot lengths one red and one black I will pretty much be assured of two short pieces that I will probably end up throwing away. So I am leaning toward the 100 ft. I still need to check Prax air where Mike got his. Any of you guys have contacts to get a deal on wire?

[SomeSailor]

Best of all would be Yellow shielded wire, but Red tape would work. Make sure you plan it all carefully first. 100 foot seems like a LOT of wire, but the easiest way to get the right number is to use some dock line to figure out the cable route before you buy. Just tape it to the bulkheads you intend to use and supply enough service loop to get you where you need to go. Then pull it out and measure it. Add an extra foot for connections and some room for error. You can carry it into Harbor Marine to swage the ends on that you'll need. If you're running up from the alternator to batteries up forward, they need to be fused at the output of the alternator AND at the batteries. You'll want that breaker to trip before the fuse at the batts, and the fuse at the batts to go before the line up from the alternator. The reason for the second fuse is to prevent a fire between the alternator and the forward batts. A 160A alternator would heat that cable up pretty quick if you shorted it.

[Papa Charlie]

I second the advice to to measure carefully. I purchased 25 feet (50 total round trip) to go from the aft end of the cave to the batteries on the port aft end of the engine room. I made it but had 6 inches left and I had to run it in a manner I did not want but had to. You will be surprised at how fast the footage will disappear.
You also need to run that heavy disconnect switch/breaker up to the lower helm so that will add more footage.
My recommendation is to measure, think long, then add 20% and good luck.

I know this is smaller stuff but my example is that I need to run wire from the Webasto to the pilothouse defroster switch. I measured the run, it came out at 30 feet. I purchased 50.

[voyager]

I think this unit comes with a device called a contactor? or something like that, they heavy wire is wired into that and then I can run smaller gauge wire to multiple switchs. So I f I understand it right I can run stragiht from the engine room to the bow and back. I will measure probably next weekend. I am thinking of going up the port side and running the wire through the closet and under the sink in the aft staterrom under the bunk and under the galley sink then into the v-birth. The inverter/charger is on the port side so that will be almost a straight shot from the port engine alternater. I will have to drill some holes and seal them but I think that will be the shortest route. I'm not sure if the platform under the aft mattress is screwed down on that side or not. I know the section over the water tank comes out but I am not sure about the other side. It may be worth the extra money to route it through the cave.

[2859er]

I think this unit comes with a device called a contactor? or something like that, they heavy wire is wired into that and then I can run smaller gauge wire to multiple switchs.
Sound like a solenoid, the small wire carries fewer amps and goes to the switch. When the switch is closed it closes the contacts in the solenoid or contactor which completes the circuit between the batteries and the windlass.　 It keeps the heavy amps from running through the switch and away from your fingers.

[Papa Charlie]

Greg, that is exactly what it is. Unfortunately, you still need a breaker on the high power line between the batteries and the windlass. This need to be installed at the lower station. All the contacts do is to allow smaller contacs in the switches that send a signal to the relay to open or close the larger contacts and power the windlass. You can also run wires to the bridge if you want a separate control there using the smaller wire.

The good this is you only need to run the hot wire up to the breaker. The ground wire can go direct to the relay.

[SomeSailor]

You need to not forget the fuses. You will need one back aft... and another at the batteries.

[voyager]

I stopped into Lowes today for a furnace filter and took a quick look at the wire. They have black 1/0 for $1.96 per ft. that was at the Bellevue store so I am assuming Everett will have it at the same price. That is a reasonable price and they sell it by the ft so they just got my business afer I measure this thing.

[SomeSailor]

The wire they sell for homes is often not fine stranded enough for boats. You'll wanna check that. Welding lead has much finer strand and will handle vibration and current expansion and contraction better. You gonna be up there tomorrow?

[voyager]

No I can not make it this weekend, the wife is in San Diego for a meeting and I have to take my daughter to her dance competition, I plan on going next weekend and starting on it. I had not thought about the thickness of the wire, thats just another example of my ignorance with wiring and why I'm asking so many questions.

[Chtucker]

This is where I have been spending my employer's money lately....


But they have a GREAT marine wire selection

http://www.hscseattle.com/

i can inquire about pricing with our account #

[voyager]

This is where I have been spending my employer's money lately....


But they have a GREAT marine wire selection

http://www.hscseattle.com/

i can inquire about pricing with our account #

If you can get a good price I would be interested.

[Chtucker]

If you can get a good price I would be interested.


Send me a message with a shopping list and I will call in the morning

[SomeSailor]

I plan on going next weekend and starting on it. I had not thought about the thickness of the wire, thats just another example of my ignorance with wiring and why I'm asking so many questions.

No worries. You want fine strand (preferably tinned) wire. I opted for un-tinned welding wire, but when you have high amperages in a vibration prone environment you need fine stranded wire. It bends better and the bends won't try as hard to spring your connections free and fatigue crack.

(I searched Lowes as well... trust me) :) This danged wire isn't cheap (even at cost).

[toukow]

I stopped into Lowes today for a furnace filter and took a quick look at the wire. They have black 1/0 for $1.96 per ft. that was at the Bellevue store so I am assuming Everett will have it at the same price. That is a reasonable price and they sell it by the ft so they just got my business afer I measure this thing.

I've been using these guys, but mainly on the smaller sizes like #8-12. It's tinned, fine strand, and states ABYC standards, but I have not compared. Appears 1/3-1/2 less than WM anyway. In the smaller sizes they sell in 25 ft and 50 ft lengths, but not in the size you need. For what it's worth, Dean

http://stores.ebay.com/Genuinedealz/Marine-Battery-Cable-Tinned-/_i.html?_fsub=5284430&_sc=1&_sid=779049&_sop=2&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

[GoFirstClass]

Voyager, just a quick comment on the wire you choose. Marine grade wire is tinned the entire length. Household and welding wire are not, which means they are more prone to corrosion which leads to overheating, loss of power and possibly a fire.

If your insurance company is investigating a fire claim on your boat and finds you did not use marine grade cable for your windlass installation you may have trouble getting them to honor your claim.

Is it really worth it to use a non-marine grade of cable on your boat to save a hundred bucks?

Just saying.......

[SomeSailor]

Tinned wire is prefrred, but untinned certainly poses no fire hazard. Being properly fused is the key to safety on a high amperage cable like this. I'd have opted for tinned cable if I had not been getting the welding cabe at cost. Big cable gets spendy fast.com :)

[GoFirstClass]

Yes it does!

[GoFirstClass]

Yes it does! I guess I'm a HUGE skeptic when it comes to a potential battle with an insurance company. Given half a chance to step out of having to pay a claim, they'll pick that door every time. Then you have to sue them to get them to do what they rightfully should have done in the first place.

[SomeSailor]

Show me then where it says you must use tinned wire on a boat? I'll send ya a copy of the ABYC Standard E-11 (AC AND DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS ON BOATS). No where does it say anything about tinned wire (or red wire). Only that they be marked.

If you look carefully, you'll find it all over most Bayliners right from the factory. :)

[voyager]

Hey is this a good deal on welding cable and is it the kind I need?
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/for/2800373748.html

[SomeSailor]

That's awfully big (3O) bug you'd never have to worry about voltage drop. :)

Can't beat the prince though. Will he split it up?

[Pack66Dad]

Make sure you are using MARINE WIRE! :!:

Regular battery cable is not acceptable (according to my ABYC Electrician). He says it is a major cause of boat fires..... :shock:

I don't know all the details but those two words got my attention and made me fork out the extra dough for marine wire.

[SomeSailor]

Make sure you are using MARINE WIRE! :!:

Regular battery cable is not acceptable (according to my ABYC Electrician). He says it is a major cause of boat fires..... :shock:

Seems like the ABYC would then recommend tinned wire huh?

http://www.iboatnw.com/ABYC/ABYC%20Standard%20E-11%20-%20AC%20&%20DC%20Standards.pdf (http://www.iboatnw.com/ABYC/ABYC%20Standard%20E-11%20-%20AC%20&%20DC%20Standards.pdf)

I don't argue that it's a better way to go, but I do not directly correlate un-tinned wire with any increased risk of fire. Properly crimp the lugs, seal the ends, mark the cable and unless you're underwater the corrosion risk is no great problem. You'd have to sell me on the reasoning on how there's a fire potential.

[Pack66Dad]

I'm not an electrician so I must yield to their professional wisdom. And I don't think its worth a couple dollars to tempt fate.

Just my opinion ;)

[SomeSailor]

I can agree with not tempting fate... but tinning wire is about corrosion prevention.

If a piece of wire is dry and sealed properly, there's not a problem. These cables are only used when that windlass is moving, so it's no more dangerous than the starter on your car.

In my opinion, tempting fate would be intentionally undersizing the wire to save a few bucks. Take a look at what the ABYC standard is actually recommending. It's all in that link I posted.

[Pack66Dad]

I'm not disputing what you are saying or implying that your wrong in any way. I simply reported what the professional I hired told me when I was having my windlass installed. He was very adamant about the point so it stuck with me.

Your argument seems sound, but like I said before. If my ABYC certified electrician tells me it needs tinned wire, I'm getting tinned wire........ but that's just me. You guys who can DIY are a lot more informed on the details than I am.

[toukow]

I'm not disputing what you are saying or implying that your wrong in any way. I simply reported what the professional I hired told me when I was having my windlass installed. He was very adamant about the point so it stuck with me.

Your argument seems sound, but like I said before. If my ABYC certified electrician tells me it needs tinned wire, I'm getting tinned wire........ but that's just me. You guys who can DIY are a lot more informed on the details than I am.

I totally understand your logic of wanting to follow what you have been told by such a 'certified electrician' but misconceptions abound in all walks of life. Somesailor is right. If you search around you will see discussions on this 'myth' requiring tinning. As conceded it is better for the corrosion reasons that SS mentioned, but is not required.

Below is the cable construction standard UL1426 that is referenced in the ABYC link provided earlier in this thread, and tinning is not metioned. Do what you are most comfortable with is always the bottom line.


1 Scope

1.1 These requirements cover electrical cables for boats. The cables are intended for use in marine pleasure craft and consist of a single insulated conductor without a jacket or of two or more insulated conductors with or without an overall nonmetallic jacket. Each boat cable is rated as follows: 600 V; 60°C (140°F), 75°C (167°F), or 90°C (194°F) wet; and 60°C (140°F), 75°C (167°F), 90°C (194°F), or 105°C (221°F) dry. Boat cable dry-rated 125°C (257°F) or 200°C (392°F) may be investigated. A boat cable so marked has insulation (and jacket if a jacket is used) that is for use where exposed to oil at 60°C (140°F) and lower temperatures. Boat cables employ stranded copper conductors that are 18 - 4/0 AWG for multiple conductors and 16 - 4/0 AWG for single conductors.


Here is a link discussing both types- tinned and bare copper.
http://www.boat-cable.com/types.htm


For what it's worth, Dean

[SomeSailor]

And I don't mean to imply that tinned wire isn't a better way to go. It certainly is... but so is yellow ground cable over black... but it's a matter of money at some point too. Your electrician is right to advise tinned wire, but nobody is gonna start a fire over it.

[kwb]

And the electrician marks up probably on a percentage of parts cost - cheaper parts = less markup in his pocket. He also probably pushes tinned wire because of general misinformation out there and if an ignorant person sees his work it is possible to have them go badmouthing his work (reputation) and hurt future business.

I have a good amount of both in my boat and I would say that I have seen just about as many problems with tinned as untinned wire.... but most of those root cause out to a poor crimp/seal on the connector or being poorly routed/supported v. any corrosion.

Keep your connections clean and dry, do a decent job crimping, and sealing when needed and the wire is probably never a problem tinned or not.... then it starts to come down to costs.

[SomeSailor]

You can also paint on "Liquid Electrical Tape" to the crimped ends, and use sealing heat shrink over that to hermetically seal the ends (and mark the colors).

[voyager]

Well I made it to the boat today and tore everything apart to see what the best way to run the wire is going to be. I think I am going wire it into the switch panel in the engine room and then run forward through the bulkhead on the port side. This will bring the wire in through the closet in the aft staterrom and under the sink. Then I can run it up the middle of the platform the mattress sits on . That area is already open, I will have to drill another hole in the bulkhead behind the refigerator and then run the wire under the galley sink and into the port v-birth. I am not sure if I can do this without pulling the refrigirator I hope so but I think I will have to pull it out. Here are some pictures of the switch panel and the inverter/changer I am running the wire to. I was talking to Mike and he thinks I can just connect to the current accessory switch and then hook into the terminal block at the inverter/chanrger. I plan on mounting the solonoid beside the terminal blocks and then running 6 avg to the windlass.
1796179918001797
1798

[Papa Charlie]

Paul,
It may be easier to run the line up from the batteries in the engine room behind the stbd fuel tank a the front and into the cave. You can remove the panel in the storage area under the steps in the midship cabin to make it easy to run. From there you can go directly into the cave. Most installations put a disconnect switch at the helm so you can disconnect the motor when ever you are not using it without having to go into the engine room. You can then drop it back down into the cave and forward along the same run as the head discharge hose that feeds the tank. Through the hanging closet and the compartments under the v berth and up into the chain locker.
You could also go from the helm console after the disconnect switch through the medicine cabinet and into the hanging locker. Much easier run.

[voyager]

Pat I am not sure I am following what you are saying. I do not think I have an access hatch under the steps on the starboard side. I have an engine access hatch but that is out in the open so. If I do it on the port side I can hide them in the closet. If I do it on the starboard side how can I run wire through the built in electric heater that is under the stairs? Would I have to pull the heater out and run the wires behind it?

My inverter/charger is on the port side of the v-birth so that would mean a lot more heavy cable to run it up the starboard side and around the front of the v-birth and back down the port side to the charger/inverter? I can run simple 16 gauge switch wire from the solenoid at the charger/inverter to the switch at the helm and I can run 6 gauge from the soloing up and along the shelf in the v-birth so it is hidden and directly into the chain locker. If I run it on the port side where do you hide the wire when it exits the v-birth and runs up to the chain locker? And how would I get the Charger/inverter wired into the boats charging system so it charges off the engines? Right now it only charges on shore power and I want to be able to charge from the engines?

[Papa Charlie]

Paul.
The area behind the steps in the mid cabin the back wall where there is a shelf. If you remove the four screws holding the shelf braces the shelf pops out. Then you can see four screws in that back panel. It pulls out to reveal a compartment that all the cables and wires are run in between the engine compartment and the cave. It makes running wires from the engine room to the occuppied compartments much easier and is sealed.
Also you don't have much extra footage to run the wire from the stbd v berth compartment through the center one into the port. That way you won't have to deal with going through the closet, vanity, under the bed frame, behind the water tank, behind the frig, through the kitchen cabinets, through the bulkhead into the v berth.
Worth taking a look at.

[voyager]

Ok now I understand but I'm still not sure. Honestly I have never been all the way to the front of the cave. To get there I think I would have to take out the water heater and I am not sure about the holding tank. Plus I am not a small guy so getting in and out of the cave is not something I look forward to. The other route is pretty much out in the open I will have to drill one hole from the engine compartment into the locker after that I have heating and cooling duct work running that I can follow all the way to the bulkhead behind the refrigirator. I will have to drill another hole there, and then I follow the duct work again into the v-birth. That route has to be at least 10 feet shorter, the switch panel n the engine room is on the port side so it is probably 8 feet of wire in the engine room to run it back to the starboard side and then start running forward. Unless there is a safty issue or seomthing else I am not thinking about I will probably run the wire up the port side. I will still have to run the small wire to the helm for the rocker switch maybe I can hire a midget to get into the cave to do that:-)

[Papa Charlie]

I have used a wire fish to run my wires through the cave into the console and so on. But you can run them the other way too. Just thought it would be good to have all the wires run through the cave and have a disconnect at the helm so you can turn off the power through a breaker there.
Your way would also work. Just suggesting an alternative.

[SomeSailor]

So, did ya the project started Paul? I got busy working with my son on his Jeep and pretty much ran out of boat time. Drove by earlier in the day but you weren't quite there yet. Sounds like you've got a plan together now. Lemme know if you need some help. I'm down at the new old boat most every day or two tinkering on something, so if ya need a hand, just call me. I start a new job in a few weeks so hopefully I'll finally have some time for boating this year. (of course I thought that last year too) :)

[voyager]

Next weekend is a three day weekend for me, the windlass should be here Tuesday so I plan on getting this done next weekend, unless it is raining non-stop. I can't be drilling holes to mount the windlass if it is raining. I would like to seal the side's of the hole's with resin before I mount the windlass. Or would 4200 work without sealing the holes? I just do not want water intrusion in the deck. At the very least I will get all the wiring ran and be ready to mount the windlass next weekend.

I also need to take a trip to boaters discount and pick up my new engine hatches and get those mounted.

[Papa Charlie]

Paul,
I would recommend that you seal the holes with resin. There is a significant amount of force on the deck when bringing up the anchor, especially if it is set very well. You don't want that creating a void for water to enter. Also be sure to use a large doubler plate under the deck. Mine has two plates to spread the load through the deck service.

[voyager]

Ok I did it, it took three days and a ton of work but that sucker is installed and it runs. I do not know if it will haul an anchor yet I still have to order the new rode and anchor setup. I'm going to try what I have first, but I do not have high hopes of it working. I still have to put the wood back on under the dash to cover up all the wireing and I need to install a corner piece in the v-birth but other than than I am done. Nothing about this project was routine or normal I think it was all covered by Murphys law. Even installing the switch on the dash which was the last thing required moving other switches to make room. And a thank you to Mike for helping me last weekend and stopping by with moral support this weekend.

And today I got the new engine hatches installed. it took most of the day and three trips to Harbor marine but they are done. They look really good, so good in fact that I am thinking I need to do something with the rest of the cockpit floor so it looks better.

I did not get to fixing the downrigger mount or screwing the cockpit coushins back on, I guess that will be next weekend. It just seems like it takes me a lot longer to get things done than it used to and the old muscles hurt longer than they used to. Maybe I need to go to a chiropractor I have never belived in them but it seems like my lower back just does not stop hurting.

But the next project will be the salon cushions and rebuilding them so they are more comfortable. So Pat if you read this I will be giving you a call to look at yours maybe next weekend.

[Papa Charlie]

Not a problem Paul. Just give me a call. I was hoping to work on the boat this weekend but other things popped up. Let me know when you are going to be there.

Also, congrats on getting your projects done. I am feeling a little left behind here on mine. We ordered and received our new washer and dryer for the boat. Need to get the old one removed and enlarge the compartment. Then we ordered the new blinds for the salon. Those will be two weeks so I have a little time.
Between projects on the 45, cleaning the 32, trips for work, work and of course life, seems like I have no time at all. Oh well, my choice I guess.

Look forward to seeing you next weekend.