Bow Sprint

[Go Aweigh2452]

OK, Mike, this is what I want...

http://www.curtisnjrotc.com/iboatnw/anch4.jpg

this pix came from tckhan and I emailed him as to who did the work but no response... so far... I was thinking maybe he has the pattern...

It doesn't show but the Bow rail stays as original...

Easy enough Doug;

If I were going to start a project like that, the easiest way to get started would be to mock something in wood and EMT conduit (EMT for the stainless and wood for starboard. You could cludge that together with common hand tools and get a very accurate idea of what you wanted before we start bending up pricey 316 stainless. The fitting and welding is pretty straightforward. The polishing is nothing but pure "Manuel" labor (like your damned downrigger) :D

When I first saw it I wondered why he bothered with the starboard at all. A nice piece of stainless diamond plate could have been fashioned and made the thing last a lot longer I would suspect. You could then integrate the roller and pulpit into one nice polished piece.

Looks like a fun project. Put some lines on paper and we'll get started.

[Go Aweigh2452]

okey dokey... BTW, I have two buffing machines for polishing... not that hard to buff out anything... I buff my valve covers once in a while (every two years at least)... the hard part would be the small inside corner areas, etc. The other "hard part" is taking emory sandpaper to the burrs and dings... for some reason my buddies are afraid to sand stainless and pound/hammer out the dents in car molding... then sand them down and then buff them up...

I'll get organized putting pencil to paper after doing my taxes...

Yeah, thats the beauty of working in stainless to begin with. It polishes wonderfully. Aluminum is nice as well because you can always weld something back together, fill something in and then just grind, sand and polish. You can make something look like one solid piece pretty easily. The only problem with marine use is it needs to be powder coated afterwards. Stainless will be a better material for something like this.

Here's what I'd suggest; Design the roller/hawse mount, and then wrap it in tubing afterwards. If a person build it right, you could mount a small windlass, a cleat or other such things right on the plate.

[dumluck53]

That is a nice mount, Doug. You guys that can fabricate something like this amaze me. Can't wait to see the finished product. Please post pics.

If you don't feel like polishing, call around and see if you find a metal finishing shop that does electropolishing. It will turn out better than if done by hand.

Raul

It depends on what the surface looks like though, electropolishing is like the opposite of plating. I used to work next door to an anodizing shop as a kid and they bright polished everything before anodized. Any pits, roll grain marks or even pickling matte will be amplified by electropolishing.

It's like when the house lights come up at the end of the evening. :shock:

The nice thing about hand polishing is you can clean up my crappy welds. :D

The bad thing about hand polishing SS is that it can lead to impurities finding their way into the grain which in turn leads to corrosion. I like to have SS passivated and electropolished.

Then again, I'm an anal-retentive engineer that used to support a large aerospace fabrication/chem processing facility.

Raul

If you're gonna spend the hundreds to have it passivated, bright dipped and hard plated... you might as well spring for the nickle plating and just have Railings Northwest do it for you.

I can solve any problem with a checkbook... but that sort of leaves the DIY out of the loop, and for me, half the satisfaction of bothering.

Stainless will self-passivate itself if you clean it in a good acid solution when you're finished buffing. You can buy expensive pickling solutions, or simply use oxalic acid (ZUD, CLR or ZEP) and then allow it to air dry and cure. The iron oxides are consumed, chromium oxides will reform and you'll be fine.

I've had wonderful results working with stainless, and its a beautiful material to work with. Do you actually believe companies like Pacific Mariner go through that on any any of their yacht railings? Railings Northwest is just off Pacific in Everett. They are the exclusive builder of all of their rail and brightwork. It's all built there in Everett, and then welded in place on the boat in the yards. No electroplating. Just pickling paste and elbow grease. :)

[Seapuppy]

yeah...now he's just a manager :shock: :lol:
:argh arrr

I'm not questioning your experience with working SS. On the other hand, I had a tremendous amount of experience at the McDonnell Douglas fabrication shops.

BTW, electropolishing is not plating.

Raul

BTW... I never said "plating"

Electropolishing is actually the opposite. Bright dipping IS plating, as is hard-plating (usually nickle).

I suspect you know what you're talking about, but not having the electropolishing tank here in my garage :D means good old fashioned buffing.

[Go Aweigh2452]

Well, for one thing, the boat is trailered so it won't be in a salt environment 24/7. Second, I wash down my boat every time it gets wet with salt water, Third, Its garaged every winter with the exception of being out early Feb this year... it was too nice not to be out on the water...

In fact, I plan to make a run this week for fun... a little mooching off Blake.

Geez...my original point was a simple one, "electropolish if you don't feel like polishing." I used to have a shop in CA put my stuff in with their production run for $10-15. So if you can find a deal like this its hardly worth the effort of hand polishing.

BTW, you did mention hard plating and electroplating in your posts so I assumed you were referring to the stainless.

Raul

Geez...my original point was a simple one, "electropolish if you don't feel like polishing.

I understood your point Raul. You just made it sound like hand polishing was somehow inferior to electropolishing.


I used to have a shop in CA put my stuff in with their production run for $10-15. So if you can find a deal like this its hardly worth the effort of hand polishing.

I certainly agree. If you know someone who let you put outside items in their tanks for $10-$15, please let me know. That's much easier than buffing.


BTW, you did mention hard plating and electroplating in your posts so I assumed you were referring to the stainless.

I was. But only to say that if money were no object, I'd just have it built, electropolished and passivated and then brite dipped or plated. :)

I don't mean to sound confrontational. I just offered to help Doug with a pulpit. I don't have access to the equipment you mention. I have a nice TIG welder and a bender I like to play with.

[dumluck53]

4:39 a.m. and 5:19 a.m. posts??? Dudes...that is way too early to post anything...what the heck ya doin'??? You should be rolling over and giving Momma a squeeze about that time...not talking about 'lectropolishing and stuff!!!

:wink:

The board hasn't "sprung forward" yet. I'd better fix that :D

[Go Aweigh2452]

I'll be swinging past Tony Shih's home this PM on my way to a meeting in Seattle and taking pics of his bow sprint and taking a few measurements. Hopefully I won't get caught up in the Mercer street asphalt spill on N bound I5...

in the mean time, I'll go make some more beer...

Best improvement I might suggest to Tony's design might be going all stainless vice the starboard. That's just one more piece to die over time. Some nice diamond tread or even plate would be nice.

Put some paper to pencil and get some numbers together.

[Tckhan]

Hi Doug, just want to let you know that the reason I used plastic in the middle is that I thought all metal would be too much brightwork up front for my taste. I also have enough stuff reflecting sunlight into my eyes when driving the boat. 8) Another thought also is that it is easier to modify if you change styles or types of anchors, and have to modify the pulpit to hold it. If you do decide to use 1 inch marineboard, I have a partial sheet I can sell you a piece to do the job.

Tony

Here are four different 2452's
http://home.comcast.net/~tckhan1/4pulpits.jpg

Here is a pic of the thing about half done. It was easier they found to bend it in three pieces to make it more symetrical.
http://home.comcast.net/~tckhan1/rawpulpit.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~tckhan1/bow5.jpg

I like the one on the upper right. Is that a bollard or something sticking up in the back? Some sort of short cleat would be nice right there somewhere. Sure makes the boat look nice.

[Tedster]

Looks more like a Coor's Lite to me! Ted :lol:

[Go Aweigh2452]

Tony, swung by and took some photos.. and some measurements. thanks for the advice about the alley. Worked out great. I find it hard to believe that your boat is also a 96? It seems much different then mine. The water line stripes and the mounted horns on top of the cabin especially. The Radar mount and the pole assembly is nice. What was that white cylinder on the bow rail? Had a power line going to it?

[Tckhan]

That white cylinder is a piece of water pipe made into a housing for a Standard/Horizon digital depth gauge. It is a repeater for my garmin sounder in the cockpit. When we fish the rocky shores in canada, my wife and daughter can see the depth w/o having to ask. Same while anchoring.

I could have sworn all early 2452s had the rooftop horn.
The decals are the same as your boat, it just had some selective parts of them removed last year due to some scratches. I like to think it make the boat more modern looking :lol: w.o the associated price.$$