Wood work

[Randygh]

I have a simple project but don't know how to do it.

I want to cut out a large hole in vertical side of my V-berth (starboard side, stern end). I store PFD's under the berth and the side of the berth is a solid piece of plywood. In the Tolly, both sides under the cushions were cut out so it was easy to remove the items stored there. With the Carver, I have to lift up the cushion in order to get into the compartment. The wood I'd like to cut out is not weight bearing. The frame supports all the weight. My problem is that there is not enough room to cut close to the 4 edges of the wood with my jig saw. I'd like to leave about 2 1/2" around of the wood face and cut round corners. I'll finish the raw edge with some trim molding. Does anyone know of a saw that I can use to cut closely to the edges and make round corners?

[pkrogh]

Hand operated keyhole saw?? for the tight parts ??

Pete

[Salmon Troller]

A small router (rotozip?)

[SomeSailor]

If you can get to both sides, you can use one of those carbide-coated wire saws they sell at GI-Joes and such. Sometimes getting some material out of the way will give you enough room to use a more finished approach.

Another way to cut and smooth in tight spaces is with a die grinder and a carbide bit. They'll chew away material fast, and then as you get close you can slow down and get a finished edge. I've used them on everything from steel and aluminum to fiberglass and plastic.

[Go Aweigh2452]

I'd go with a router first then look at table mounted saws.

I have a similar project and will be cutting a 15x19 inch verticle hole under the forward bunk for storage. My mission is to find or make a louvered and framed door 16hx20w out of teak or similar wood. That would allow air to circulate under the bunk and minimize the mildew from being closed off.

Anyone knowing a source for the doors or the wood to make my own would (wood) be appreciated...

[Salmon Troller]

I'm pretty sure that West Marine has some teak louvre door kits, but like all teak, not inexpensive. I did a similar project out of plywood with a pattern of small vent holes in a decorative fashion. It all depends on how visible the door is and how fancy you feel like getting.

[Randygh]

Thanks for the tips. I can't get a router in close to the edges. I like the idea of a key hole saw. I think I'll mark the cut out area and use a hole saw to cut the corners, then I'll use a key hole saw to connect the corner holes. Should work A-OK. :D

[pkrogh]

I do the hole saw trick a lot. I can't saw a neat radius for @$%^^

Pete

[heymagic]

The Dremel makes a great kit now that has a small rotozip type and many other attachments. Pretty neat setup. You could maybe take a regular sabre saw and remove the handle portion, put a swtich on the side or in the cord. They used to make a small sabre without the big handle, you just held onto the motor area.

[SomeSailor]

They've got these little body saws for $19.95 at Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/00100-00199/00113.gif

[sunnydude2]

Check with Secondwave.cc for doors. They have all sizes and shapes. Might find what you are looking for doorwise.

[knotheadcharters]

Rotozip would be the quickest and cleanest way to go. IMO

Chris

[Salmon Troller]

Somewhere in the shop, I have some of those "rotozip" type bits that fit a dremel. As long as you would have the 6" or so vertical clearance of the motor, you should be able to get within an inch or so of the sides. This is much less than a router base.

[SomeSailor]

I use one in mine all the time. You have to buy a different chuck insert to used standard RotoZip bits. I think they're 6mm or some other size. Lowes sells the inserts and the RotoZip bits for a couple of bucks.

Be carefull with those RotoZip bits though. I slipped and RotoZipped my left thumb knuckle right into the grissle one morning here. (Now THAT hurt!)

They'll walk through pretty much anything and my 20 year old Dremel has a new lease on life :)

[bradvo]

I also found that the roto zip is hard to make a clean circle with, so be sure to stay a good ways inside cut line.
I bought a roto zip fiberglass cutting tool, not the cheap 1/8 diameter one , but the 1/4 inch auger. Holy crap, I was cutting an inspection hole in about a 1/4 inch thick material and it was like going through butter- but very hard to keep it clean and threw fiberglass fines all over the frig'nn place , including me. Lucky it was covered with one of those 6 inch inspection plate covers so looked good when done. Took about 2 days to clean up the residue though, next time I would have somebody there with a shop vac , if they would. But I would first try anything but a roto zip on glass again.
Brad
I like that reciprocating saw pictured above.

[SomeSailor]

That saw is a little bugger too. It's only about 8" long and one will probably find it's way into my collection of Harbor Freight toys next time I'm down there. :D

[Numbknots]

I have found that with any rotor saw, if you can make a cutting jig (use the edge to guide the tool like a fence, sometimes you can cut a circle template using the motor, or cutting guard as a stop and follow it around the radius of the hole. (nail or screw the template to the center of the area to be cut and just take it slow at the end of the cut)

Another tip is as SS said using a rotory file works unbelievably well, especially if you are able to use an air powered die grinder. A variety of wood rasps also work well to finish the cuts.

Tim

[Randygh]

I finished my project making a cut-out below our berth. I used a holesaw for the round corners and a keyhole saw to make the long cuts. Fortunately the plywood didn't have any hollow spots so I sanded the raw edges, stained and finished with quick drying polyurethane. Turned out just fine. Since the cutout is under the berth and will be stuffed with PFD's I'm not going to put on a door. If I need to pull out PFD's in a hurry, I can get at them with much more ease.